Oaxaca Food: What to Eat and Where to Find It
1. The 7 Moles
Oaxaca is famous for its Moles, exquisite dishes that can contain up to 30 ingredients. The name “mole” originates from the Nahuatl word “mulli,” meaning “ground,” because the traditional preparation method involves using volcanic stones to grind all the ingredients until achieving a homogeneous consistency, which is not precisely a paste.
Don’t miss trying the seven traditional moles: Mole Negro, Mole Colorado, Mole Amarillo, Mole Verde, Mole Chichilo, Mole Manchamanteles, and Mole Rojo. Each mole reflects the diverse regions and cultures of Oaxaca, so be sure to try them all, or at least as many as you can. I recommend starting at the markets, such as Mercado 20 de Noviembre or Mercado de La Merced.
Pro Tip: Ask for a Mole tasting (Prueba de Moles). Now, it’s common to get a small plate with a scoop of different options and a few tortillas to dip in the Moles. This is a much easier way to get started, so you don´t get over-served with a considerable portion of Mole, rice, and meat.
2. Memelas
It’s one of the most popular breakfasts in Oaxaca, and you better know why. This is a small and thick tortilla open served with a layer of pork lard named “Asiento,” then covered with Black Beans and Queso (fresh chees) or Quesillo (shredded cheese) and Salsa. It may also have some meat, such as beef or Chorizo (pork).
It is very common to find them on the street stands early in the morning, near schools, hospitals, or in plazas, and of course, at Markets. Nowadays, one of the most popular stands is Memelas Doña Vale, located at Mercado de Abastos. Memelas Doña Vale has been seen in many streaming shows such as “Somebody Feed Feel” and “Street Food Latin America”
Pro tip: Asiento (pork lard) is always used as the first layer. If you´re looking for a vegetarian or vegan option ask for “No Asiento” or “Sin Manteca”
3. Garnachas
Garnachas are one of the most popular dishes in Istmo de Tehuantepec, one of the eight regions of the state of Oaxaca. Located in the southern part of the state, this region is the narrowest part of the country, situated between the Mexican Gulf and the Pacific.
These are small tortillas topped with beef and tomato salsa, all fried in oil and then topped with pickled cabbage and carrots, and old cheese as a cherry on top. They are crispy, juicy, with a hint of sourness, the perfect bite!
Garnachitas are common for breakfast and dinner, easy to find in family businesses from the Istmo region. Visit Mercado Orgánico La Cosecha for the best Garnachitas in town.
Pro Tip: ask for Champiñones or Patatoes and Poblano pepper for vegetarian and vegan options
4. Tejate
Known as “The Drink of the Gods,” Tejate is a refreshing pre-Hispanic beverage made from Corn and Cacao. It also contains the pit of Mamey fruit, and the flower Rosita de Cacao Quararibea funebris.
All the ingredients are roasted over a comal and then ground with stones. The final product is a masa (dough) that gets mixed with cold water and ice. At the end, you get a thick drink with a soft foam on top, very delicious and refreshing.
The perfect time to enjoy it is at noon, once the day is getting hotter. Please take a seat and enjoy it on a Jícara.
Stop by Benito Juarez Market and ask for Tejate Sylvia, my favorite stand, a family business with over five generations offering this drink and protecting the recipe.
5. Tlayudas
They’re oversized corn tortillas with a slightly firm texture.. The classic preparation starts with a layer of asiento (pork lard), a spread of black beans, and plenty of Quesillo—Oaxaca’s famous string cheese.
Once folded, the Tlayuda is grilled over charcoal, giving it a smoky flavor and that irresistible balance between crispy and chewy. Add grilled meats like Tasajo (beef), Cecina enchilada (chile-marinated pork), or Chorizo on the side to get a richer experience.
One of the most popular places to try them is “Tlayudas la Chinita,” a popular spot that has been seen on the Netflix show “Street Food Latin America.”
6. Barbacoa
One of the most complex dishes not only in Oaxaca but in many other parts of Mexico, Barbacoa is a low-cooking dish, mainly cooked underground.
Goat or Lamb are the most popular meats, but we can also find beef or chicken. The first step is to marinate the meat with different spices, such as cumin, bay leaf, Pitiona or Hoja de Aguacate, and chiles, like Chile Guajillo. This process is long and can take up to 12 hrs.
The next step is to build an oven underground, where the meat is going to be placed. All is covered with banana or agave leaves, and a final layer of sand.
The final product is a soft and tender meat, juicy and full of flavors. You can get it served with Consommé (broth) or as Tacos de Barbacoa, accompanied by guacamole, limes, and salsa as sides.
Visit Tlacolula Market for the best Barbacoa in town.
7. Chocolate
Oaxaca is well known for its Chocolate even is not a big producer of Cacao. However, the recipe is key.
Cacao and Chocolate in Oaxaca have a profound meaning in the culture, they are served mainly during ceremonies or important events, such as Día de Muertos, Mayordomias, or weddings.
Traditional Chocolate is prepared by roasting and peeling Cacao Beans, then mixing them with sugar, almond, and cinnamon. The final product is used to form bars or circles.
To prepare drinks, we can dissolve the final Chocolate either in water or milk; the first option is the most popular. And the perfect match is always a slice of Pan de Yema or Pan de Cazuela, two very popular types of bread from the Central Valleys.
Visit Chima Cacao for a Cacao and Chocolate tasting, or even to take a workshop and create your own to take home.
8. Tamales
Another very famous dish found in Oaxaca is Tamales. They are made by spreading corn masa on a corn husk or banana leaf, then some meat and salsa are added, and finally they are carefully enveloped. Ultimately, they are steamed until cooked.
The famous Tamales Oaxaqueños are made using banana leaf, Black Mole, and chicken. You can find them in the morning for breakfast or later in the day for dinner. Look for them with street vendors screaming Tamales!, or check the markets.
Don´t skip trying the sweet versions. One of my favorites, which is also a vegan option, is Tamal de Támala, a mix of corn masa with sweet pumpkin, filled with black beans prepared with Hoja de Aguacate, and cooked in a corn husk. You can find them with Doña Rosita at her stall “La Costeñita” located at Mercado Orgánico la Cosecha.
9. Empanadas
These are not your typical empanadas; instead, they are large, handmade corn tortillas cooked fresh on a comal (a traditional flat griddle). Once placed on the comal, they are filled with a variety of local ingredients.
One of the most popular options is Mole Amarillo, which can be paired with chicken or mushrooms. Another classic choice features a thin layer of pork lard spread on the tortilla, topped with quesillo (the famous Oaxacan string cheese) and fresh epazote leaves, an aromatic herb that gives the dish its signature flavor.
Empanadas del Carmen Alto is the best spot to try them—a street stand located across the street from El Carmen Alto church. This stand has also been showcased on streaming shows.
10. Nieves
Last but not least, we have a sweet refreshment. Nieves have been popular in Oaxaca for over a hundred years. They are a sweet and fresh way to refresh yourself on a hot afternoon, or as the perfect dessert after a delicious meal.
Nieve is the translation for snow, as that is the texture. They are prepared in a large wooden barrel, where a smaller metal container filled with the flavored mixture is placed. The space between the barrel and the container is packed with ice and salt, which helps lower the temperature and freeze the mix. The process is very artisanal and quite different from industrial ice cream making.
The liquid base, usually made from fresh and seasonal fruits, nuts, herbs, or even local specialties like mezcal or Leche Quemada, is poured into the metal container. Then, it is continuously stirred and scraped with a long wooden paddle, preventing large ice crystals from forming. This slow churning gives Nieves its smooth, almost fluffy consistency.
Visit Plaza de las Nieves and ask for a tasting. My recommendations are: Leche Quemada, Beso Oaxaqueño, Beso de ángel, Mezcal, and Tamarindo con Chile.
Oaxaca has an immense gastronomy to offer to anyone curious to try it.
We invite you to visit us and get lost in its streets, markets, plazas, and restaurants, and eat your way through the city.
If you hesitate on where to start, sign up for one of our tours and we´ll make sure you leave not only with a full stomach but with a whole heart.